2004 F250 4×4 XLT Sport Crew Cab Super Duty Auxiliary Switch Install


Filed Under (Ford) by admin on 01-01-2014

Download TOOLS & PARTS I USED – Carling illuminated rocker switch part number V1D2GHNB-AAC00-000 (three of these) – Carling illuminated rocker switch momentary part number V2D2GHNB-AAC00-000 – Round rocker switch – “attitude” switch found on ebay (two of these) – Carling 3-switch mount part number VM3-01 – Carling single switch mount part number VMS-01 – Ford Wiper Shaker system part number A8FCS-17526-A – Slim Line truck cap light (ebay) – superbrightleds.com part number WLED-WHP5 LED – inline 1/4″ x 1-1/4″ fuse holder – Radio Shack part number 270-1217 – inline blade type fuse holder – part number HHG (three of these) – SPDT Automotive Relay part number AZ9731-1C-12DC1 (two of these) – 20 amp blade type fuse
- 5 position terminal strip (two of these) – 4.5″ x 3.5″ x 1.5″ plastic enclosure – 10AWG wire (~10 feet) – 12AWG wire (several feet, various colors) – 16AWG wire (several feet, various colors) – 1N4001 diode – misc crimp terminals – Dremel tool & accessories – Cordless drill – 3/4″ wood drill bit – 1/8″ drill bit – soldering iron & solder – Xacto knife blade tip for soldering iron – Digital multimeter – Clamp-on DC ammeter – Handheld infrared thermometer – various sizes of heat shrink tubing – normal hand tools (wire strippers, cutters, crimpers, screwdrivers, etc) – socket set – Brother P-Touch label maker – 3/4″ label cartridge – black on white – 3/4″ label cartridge – black on clear PROCEDURE First, in order to accommodate these new circuits, I decided to upgrade the power availability in the cab. Because of my CB, auto dimming mirror, gauges, PIE adapter, backup camera, rear wiper, etc I’ve basically tapped into all the good places to get power. So, I decided to run a 10AWG wire directly from the battery into the cab. I terminated this onto a terminal strip for “hot always” and I also used a relay to another terminal strip for “hot in acc”. Here’s the schematics for the auxiliary power and the switches. I connected the 10AWG “hot always” wire to one of the terminal strips. Then connected a “hot always” wire through the normally open contacts of the relay, over to the other terminal strip. An existing “hot in acc” wire controls the relay coil. This arrangement gives me a new circuit of “hot always” and “hot in acc” to work with. This is shown on sheet 1 of the schematic above. Dash Cutting In order to accommodate these new switches, some fairly critical cutting needs to be done to the dash. I first removed the black section of my dash. Refer to my dash lighting writeup for the removal procedure. Once I had this section removed, I placed it on the bench to figure out where to cut the holes. There is plenty of room behind the dash, to the right of the 4×4 switch. So, I just laid out the switch mount where it looked good and didn’t interfere with anything on the back side, marked around it, and cut the hole using a Dremel tool.

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